5 day hiking trip from one ocean to another made possible by Panama. The large majority of this through the natives, Ngäbe Buglé’s reservation (comarca). It has been a dream of mine basically since I arrived in my community and fell in love with the naturaleza and investigation of this native culture. I decided I wanted to hike the width of the reservation, going from the Chiriquí side (where I live) to the Bocas del Toro side on the Caribbean. After staring at the map of Panama pegged to the wall of my house so many times, I decided I wanted to add an extra element to the adventure: ocean to ocean.
On April 30, we woke up to the sun rising up over the Pacific Ocean ( which also does not happen in too many places), with our feet in the water at our beloved local beach Las Lajas and set out for the Caribbean. The first day was most certainly the least adventurous but is where the most miles were put in. We hiked along the flat paved road. We had a beautiful cloudy morning, which made for a pleasant morning passing by the farms and cow pastures, through the town of Las Lajas and into my “hub” town of restocking and refueling, San Felix. From there we continued along the road finally crossing over the bridge to what is officially “la comarca”. Now begins my second goal of the trip, walking through the reservation. We stay the night at our Peace Corps buddies’ house which happens to be along our way, who not to mention had a very special guest visiting, his dad! They spoiled us with a few good meals and we were set to leave in the morning.
Except one problem, our guide who lives farther up along the path and was suppose to meet us there, had not showed. 8,9,10,11 o’clock has gone by. So we make a decision to go for it. We hoped to take the trail to the town of Chami where the guide lives but instead we were forced to continue along the road. Up we started to go, climbing up and up so that the following day we could pass over the mountain range. Winter here had just begun so we faced some having rain storms, at least keeping us cooled off. There was some spectacular views along this way and a lot of surprised people to hear what the gringos were up too. We get into our destination just after dark, finding our guide there as well. We get dinner at a small family restaurant, hang up our hammocks, and sleep until dawn.
Day 3:
Today is the big day heading over the top of the mountain range toward Bocas del Toro. Up and up we climb through the rain and cool climate. As our guide correctly pointed out the sun is shining when we reach the top and are greeted with a spectacular view of the towns below. We finally get off the road and begin our trek through creek beds and narrow paths, not even the horses can make it through parts of it. Stopping for a break along the way we found some chichitre (kiddos) playing some footie. My friend Sean and I jump in, knocking the ball around we eventually scored a few goals before realizing that may not have been the objective of these kid’s game. The goal opened up to the river so if you scored a goal someone would have to go chase after it down river! Oops, at least I showed them girls can play soccer too! It proved to be a long but breathtaking day. As we are starting to tire and think we must be getting close we get passed by some teachers, booking it, hiking to work! They graciously give us the details of the rest of that day’s hike and tell us we can set up camp that night in one of the school classrooms. 👌We roll into town as dusk is upon and finally get a a chance to go swimming/bathing in the river we had been criss crossing all day. Just the doctor’s orders! We bought some food at the local store, rice and lentils and found a family to cook for us. To us Peace Corps volunteers, always with an appetite, the stores were one of the great excitements/surprises of the trip. Comparative to the store in my community which generally has about 10 different items the people bring in on horses, these stores were HUGE! And not to mention horses don’t go out this far and farther. Everything is brought in a chakra (large woven bag from string) on their heads!!! Super impressive and hard working these people are.
Day 4: Headed out towards a community called Quebrada Negra, 10ish hours either direction from a car/boat transportation. Another beautiful day hiking along the river through fields of ginger. We arrive to our destination with time to spare. Bought some beans and green bananas for a women to cook up for is for dinner and off to the river we went. Epic swim spot! Plenty of rocks to jump off, climb up and wash our clothes on. If I had to pick a town this would be mine. Hung out with some kiddos who were teaching us more of their language, Ngäbere and we taught them how to play frisbee.
Day 5: Last day of hiking, headed to the “city” of Kankintu. Early start with what turned out to be an 11 hour day ahead of us. Starting the day off by climbing our “last significant hill” that is what our guide had told us, if only that was halfway true. From there we continue to and from the river, up and down the mountain, and in and out of the jungle. Around lunch time we arrive in the lovely school town of Coronte. Here there is a large river crossing, the only way across besides swimming would be with el capitan and his dug out canoe. A hunched over old man with silver hair and his skin, blackened and wrinkly from the constant sun of his job. As far as we know, for years this man has shuttled students and community members to and from day after day and maybe even without pay? We arrive as the second round of students are going to school (the only school that at least goes to 9th in quite a few miles) so there is a long crossing line. While waiting under a tree, we hear the sound of a helicopter, to our surprise it was coming over us. Based what we have seen in the movies, we would have thought we were in Vietnam during the war based on the style of helicopter and the surrounding land. The helicopter ended up landing in front of the school to take away a sick teacher. We continue on through the hot day, not being able to take in the surroundings as much as we would like so that we could arrive before dark. Booking it along the path, feeling as if I had star power from Mario Kart for a while and being greeted with ñantoro jämräka, (hey friend in Ngäbere) due to me wearing their traditional dress (nagua). We do all finally make it in before dark. We arrive to the most devolved town in the reservation. Out of the jungle appears a side walk and then electricity and local man offers up him beautiful green wood house to stay the night in. We enjoy fish and fried plantations from the restaurant for dinner. A lovely way to round out the trip. The next morning we are set to head out in a motor boat to Bocas del Toro.
All seven of us arrived with spirits alive and some damage to our feet from having to hike most of the trip in calf high rubber boots. Feeling on top of the world now as we have a little better understanding of the culture, way of life, language, and nature of the Ngäbe-Bugle’s, ready to go back to our own community’s to share our experiences with them!
Mä niki ño? Where are you going?
Nun tä nain mrente, Kankintute. We are going to the ocean, the town of Kankintu.
Ñobta? Why?
Nun tä kä mike gare jai: We are going to understand the land.
Ahhhh kuin: Ohhhh good!
Erin Storck 